I recently wrote about the principles of partnership and trust when approaching traditional climbing. As I mentioned, many of those ideas were given to me by a friend and experienced “trad” climber. At the time, being an astute and thoughtful person I could imagine those principles at work and thus had the integrity to write about them…even though I had yet to do a “trad” climb.

A month ago, I followed my first multi-pitch climb. After scaling 800 feet, over beers and grub, my partners and I discussed my principles at work. It wasn’t until that moment I bared even just a glimpse of what it meant to trad climb. There is much still to learn, yet the can I opened that day seems full of realizations.

So, now with a bit more wisdom I revisit the things I wrote about several months ago…

Don’t go tradin’ with anyone you don’t trust.
This became glaringly apparent during my six-hour climb. The amount of trust you place on each other-your partner-is immense. Yet, it is important to note on a two person climb-one spends much time alone merely connected by a rope to his or her partner. The intimacy of that relationship transforms the dynamics between people. I would not want to imagine a situation where I was intensely questioning what my partner was doing. Of course, like with all our relationships, there will be healthy moments of questioning. However, if you don’t fundamentally trust their judgment…s$#% can hit the fan.

It is better to be afraid around people who will understand.
Like many of our multi-pitch climbs something goes wrong-it’s life, it’s inevitable. We happened to misread the guide and ended up embarking on a four-hour, epic like descent. I believe I experienced every emotion a human has in that one day-and to my interest-I was able to keep composure while rappelling in the dark. Yet, at certain points throughout my day I just wanted to say, “Look guys-I am scared right now.” That release makes things seem doable-just in the face of acknowledging the reality there becomes a certain level of clarity. It is critical to be with people you can express that to and find comfort in their empathy.

Don’t lead jack for a while, just follow.
I knew before, but NOW really can see some of the complexity inherent in traditional climbing. The climbing is only part of the story. The knowledge, experience, and attitude related to trad climbing safely takes years to develop. That development never stops refined with each new experience. I plan to follow many more climbs before I seriously consider leading anything. It really becomes a step processes in learning techniques, practices, safety precautions that are related to the adventure. It can feel overwhelming, yet as in all of life taking things one step at a time with confidence gets you to the top.

Learn to be unselfish and manage your expectations.
In a world of “me” I think it becomes unconscious how much we think of ourselves. It is also partly a survival thing. But how often do we accurately look outside ourselves and manage our expectations based on those other factors? I would argue, not enough. It isn’t just about just lowering our expectations, but also raising them based on trust and confidence. The important highlight is really in the perception needed to accurately accomplish that. Even our expectations towards the mountain and climb are impacted by this principle.

It is easy to just want to tend to your own project-but it’s always fulfilling to support others in accomplishing theirs.
One of my partners and I joke-this was the weekend I truly became his sister. After six hours of climbing, minimal food…we were tired. Many of the rappels were nerve racking and his experience with them was limited. I made the decision to let him go first after our leader. It wasn’t my first choice to be honest-but something perked up in me and said be the big sister. I felt really accomplished and actually thanked him. It was fulfilling to help someone to success.


So, all this talk makes me want to climb another multi-pitch...good thing I am booked for Yosemite this weekend. It does become quite addicting...